Greek Kleftiko Meets Vibrant Xinomavro from Greece
Helen McGinn, Saturday Kitchen’s go-to wine expert, picks the Expressions Xinomavro 2022 from Greece to pair with the slow-cooked kleftiko with whole roast cabbage and spiced butter. The central theme? This wine’s bright acidity and earthy structure perfectly echo the dish’s tender lamb and spiced richness, creating harmony through shared Greek heritage and flavour synergy.
The Wine: Northern Greece’s Star
Xinomavro, often called Greece’s Nebbiolo, hails from Naoussa in northern Greece, where high-altitude vineyards yield this 100% Xinomavro gem from the 2022 vintage. Winemakers use minimal intervention—short skin contact and oak ageing—to preserve its fresh, vibrant profile of red cherry, plum, and subtle olive tapenade notes, with firm tannins and a peppery spine. From M&S, it’s an accessible entry into Greece’s rising reds, balancing power and finesse.
“This is a Greek red made from Xinomavro, grown in Macedonia in the north of Greece — and this particular bottle’s from Marks & Spencer. It’s basically Greece’s star red grape — often compared to Nebbiolo, the grape behind Barolo — but I actually find this style a bit juicier and more fruit-forward, less dry and earthy. This one’s had around 12 months in oak, just to give it a little extra spice and grip. And with lamb? It’s spot on. You want a red with some tannin, but it still needs freshness to cut through the fat — that’s exactly why this grape works so well. Its one of my favourites.” (Helen McGinn)
Why It Complements the Dish
This pairing shines through science-backed matches between wine components and the kleftiko’s elements.
Handling the Main Protein/Texture: The wine’s structured tannins grip the lamb’s melt-in-mouth tenderness from parchment slow-cooking, preventing the protein’s fattiness from overwhelming the palate—much like how tannins bind to proteins for a cleansing effect.
Cutting Richness/Sauce: Zingy acidity slices through the spiced butter’s luxurious oiliness and cabbage’s caramelised edges, refreshing each bite by neutralising fat molecules on the tongue.
Complementing Secondary Flavours: Earthy, herbal aromatics mirror the dish’s oregano, garlic, and cumin, amplifying savoury depth via congruent flavour bridging.
Not at M&S? Seek similar juicy, acidic Greek reds like Kir-Yianni Ramnista (Waitrose) or Gentilini Eclipse (11, Majestic)—same vibrant cherry and tannic grip.
Grab this bottle at M&S, cook up the kleftiko, and let Helen McGinn’s pick elevate your Greek feast—your taste buds will thank you!