Twice-baked crab and Emmental soufflés with thermidor sauce

Rick Stein presents twice-baked crab and Emmental soufflés with thermidor sauce, turning fresh seafood into a spectacular starter. Light cheese soufflés are baked twice for a stable, golden finish, then smothered in a velvety reduction of shallots, fish stock, vermouth, and herbs. It is an impressive dinner party starter and a comforting autumn classic that allows home cooks to prepare ahead without stress.

These twice-baked crab soufflés with thermidor sauce receive a Nutri-Score rating of D. Fresh white and brown crab meat delivers high-quality protein and essential sea minerals. However, generous amounts of unsalted butter, whole milk, Emmental cheese, double cream, and finishing Parmesan raise the overall saturated fat and calorie content, making this a luxurious dish best enjoyed as a dinner party treat.

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Ingredients

How the timings work

• Start by preparing the soufflé batter base and whipping whites (20 minutes active work) before baking in a water bath.
• While the soufflés bake for 20-22 minutes: simmer shallots, fish stock, vermouth, and cream to reduce your thermidor sauce.
• During the 10-minute soufflé cooling rest: turn out individual cakes into gratin dishes and fold herbs, crab, and lemon juice into the reduced sauce.
• Final 12-14 minute bake: spoon sauce over soufflés, top with Parmesan, and bake until bubbling hot and golden for immediate serving.

Method

First, prepare the cheese roux base and soufflé mixture (25 minutes)

1. Grease ramekins and build roux: Generously grease eight individual ramekins with butter. Melt 85g unsalted butter in a large saucepan over medium heat, then stir in 85g plain flour and ½ tsp mustard powder. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until pale and bubbling.
2. Add milk and incorporate cheese: Gradually pour in 550ml whole milk a splash at a time, whisking continuously until you have a smooth, thick sauce. Remove from heat, stir in 100g finely grated Emmental, and leave to cool for 5 minutes.
3. Fold in yolks and crab meat: Beat 4 egg yolks into the warm cheese sauce one by one until glossy. Gently fold in 175g white crab meat and 50g brown crab meat, then season generously with salt and black pepper.
4. Whip whites and combine: In a clean, dry bowl using an electric hand mixer, whisk 4 egg whites until stiff peaks form. Using a large metal spoon, fold one-third of whites into crab base to lighten it, then gently fold in remaining whites without knocking out air.

Next, initial water bath bake and thermidor sauce reduction (35 minutes)

1. Bake in bain-marie: Preheat oven to 200C/180C Fan/Gas 6. Divide mixture evenly between prepared ramekins and place inside a large roasting tin. Carefully pour boiling water into tin until it reaches halfway up ramekin sides (a water bath prevents edges overcooking). Bake for 20–22 minutes until puffed and golden.
2. Start thermidor reduction: While soufflés bake, melt 25g unsalted butter in a saucepan over low heat. Add 2 chopped shallots and cook for 3–4 minutes until translucent. Pour in 600ml fish stock, 50ml dry vermouth, and 37.5ml double cream (half of the total 75ml). Simmer gently for 15 minutes until liquid reduces to roughly 250ml.
3. Finish sauce consistency: Stir remaining cream into reducing sauce and cook for 5 minutes until thick enough to coat back of a spoon. Remove from heat and stir in ½ tsp mustard powder, 25g brown crab meat, 1 tsp herbs (parsley, chives, tarragon), and 1 tsp lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Turn out cooked soufflés: Remove ramekins from hot water bath and cool for 10 minutes (soufflés will sink slightly, which is normal for twice-baked recipes). Run a small palette knife around inside edges and unmould soufflés into lightly greased individual gratin dishes or one large ovenproof dish.

Finally, second bake with thermidor topping and serve (15 minutes)

1. Second bake to golden perfection: Preheat oven to 200C/180C Fan/Gas 6 about 20 minutes before serving. Ladle warm thermidor sauce evenly over top of each soufflé, then dust with 20g finely grated Parmesan and a crack of black pepper.
2. Bake and present: Bake for 12–14 minutes until sauce bubbles around edges and tops turn golden brown. Serve immediately straight from oven with a fresh green salad.

Techniques for Success

1. Folding Egg Whites into Heavy Crab Base

Fresh white and brown crab meat adds weight and fat to soufflé batter. If you fold egg whites aggressively, you will deflate trapped air pockets, turning soufflés dense and rubbery rather than light and airy. Always lighten the dense cheese and crab base first by briskly stirring in one-third of whipped egg whites. Then, use a thin metal spoon to cut down through center, sweep across bottom of bowl, and fold mixture over gently until no white streaks remain.

2. Bain-Marie (Water Bath) Cooking

Egg proteins in soufflés coagulate rapidly under harsh dry heat, which causes outer walls to turn tough before center cooks through. Baking ramekins surrounded by hot water buffers heat, ensuring temperature around ramekins never exceeds 100C. Pour boiling water carefully into roasting tin after placing ramekins inside, ensuring water reaches halfway up sides. The result is a uniformly set soufflé that unmoulds cleanly without tearing.

3. Emulsifying and Reducing Thermidor Sauce

Thermidor sauce relies on reducing fish stock, vermouth, and double cream to achieve a luxurious coating texture without flour thickeners. Boiled too fast, cream can split and turn greasy; under-reduced, sauce turns watery when spooned over soufflés. Keep sauce at a gentle simmer until reduced to 250ml, then whisk in remaining cream and brown crab meat off heat for a rich, silky finish.

Tips and Swaps

• Get ahead: Complete initial water bath bake and unmould soufflés up to 24 hours in advance; cover tightly and chill in fridge until ready for final thermidor topping and second bake.
• Vegetarian alternative: Replace crab meat with finely chopped sautéed wild mushrooms and use vegetable stock for thermidor reduction.
• Parmesan note: Traditional Parmesan uses animal rennet; swap for a vegetarian hard cheese if catering for non-meat diets.
• Safe storage and reheating: Store un-sauced baked soufflés in airtight containers in fridge for up to 2 days; reheat in preheated oven at 180C for 15 minutes until piping hot right through before saucing.

Wine Pairing

Recommended by Olly Smith:

D’Arenberg The Hermit Crab Viognier Marsanne, Australia, 2024 — Asda, £11

Olly Smith pairs this rich twice-baked crab soufflé recipe with a brilliantly named Australian white blend. Lush candied peach and stone fruit aromas from Viognier combine with Marsanne’s textural structure and subtle nuttiness, slicing cleanly through cream thermidor sauce while highlighting sweet white crab meat.

Here are equally good alternatives that pair beautifully with this dish:

Tesco Finest French White Burgundy — Tesco, £10.50
An affordable Chardonnay offering crisp green apple acidity and subtle buttery oak that matches rich cream reductions and Emmental cheese.

M&S Collection Gavi di Gavi — Marks & Spencer, £13.50
This elegant Italian white delivers crisp citrus freshness, subtle mineral tones, and white peach notes that cut through rich seafood starters.

Domaine Laroche Chablis Premier Cru — Waitrose, £26.50
A stunning premium mineral-driven Chablis boasting steely acidity and intense white flower aromas tailored to elevate rich seafood thermidor sauces.

* Prices checked October 2026 and may vary. The alternatives are our suggestions, not necessarily wines recommended by Olly Smith.

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Twice-baked crab and Emmental soufflés with thermidor sauce